The City

’I feel happy here for I learn something new every day: I try to become impregnated with the unalterable beauty Rome dispenses with such generosity’ (Auguste Rodin).

Rome is not a city that can be easily described in brief. It has too often been described as a crowded, dirty city made up of many churches and pickpockets. However, when you take the time to discover the Eternal city, it is like no other in the world. Its Piazzas, fountains and life make you fall in love with it. It is no wonder that it has been the home, the muse, the lifelong love of so many. From authors such as James Joyce, to poets like Keats. From artists such as Rodin to cinematographers like Federico Fellini. It is easy to understand why so many struggle to leave and a great number of others choose to stay.

Although the city of the modern day is a far cry from its original Roman splendour, we nonetheless get immersed in the beauty and culture of Rome. Once you have learned to ignore the constant stream of traffic, peppered with speeding smart cars, it becomes more than easy to imagine what Rome would once have been like in its full glory.

In very few cities is it possible to see the legacy left by each era. You will find “The melting pot” of art from the Renaissance to the Baroque period, represented by Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel and Bernini’s fountains, that can be found all over Rome. The archaeological and artistic wonders of Rome can be witnessed on every corner, street and Piazza of the Centro Storico.

Rome is an extremely easy city in terms of orientating yourself. Unlike many other capital cities, it is small and therefore makes walking around more enjoyable and sightseeing very easy. You can walk around the historic centre in a matter of hours, providing there aren’t too many tourists. It is a city that is hard to forget and even harder to dislike!!!

Roma Antica- is at the very heart of ancient Rome. Here you can walk around for hours taking in the Colosseum, the Palatine, the Forum and the Capitoline. The Palatine offers magnificent views to the north east over the Forum (an amazing maze of ruined temples and palaces) and over the old chariot racing stadium Circo Massimo. Trastevere can be seen to the south west. The Capitoline is dominated by the Vittoriano, a much hated building in the city better known to the Romans as “the Typewriter”. It is a beautiful area to wander round and I am sure you will never grow tired of taking in the amazing beauty of it all.

Centro Storico- it is very easy to get lost in the little streets of this area. However, this is the best way to discover its many wonders. The Pantheon, the French Quarter and Piazza Navona can be found to the south of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, whilst to the north you will come across Campo dei Fiori, Torre Argentina (the forum where Cesar was stabbed), the Ghetto and the beautiful Synagogue; which you must see from inside. It is an area overflowing with small Trattorias and bars aligning the picturesque cobbled streets, which are normally almost deserted. If you walk to the east of the Pantheon, you will find Via del Corso, which is the main shopping street. At the end of the street, you can walk around Piazza del Popolo where the church Santa Maria del Popolo displays Caravaggio’s works.

Vatican city- the smallest independent state in the world needs little introduction. It has its own postal service, newspaper, currency, radio and even station (although it is no longer for public use). It is only 1 km2 however; it has wealth that it disproportionate to its size thanks to the collections within the Vatican museums and the Basilica of Saint Peter. When the pope addresses the square from his balcony, it has been known to fill up with as many as 1 million people.

East of Via del Corso- is one of the busiest parts of Rome no matter what time of year you are there. It stretches from San Lorenzo in the east, to Via del Corso in the west. Here you will find the Spanish steps with Bernini’s fountain at the bottom. The step themselves, despite all the postcards are only covered in flowers in early spring. The Trevi Fountain, should you be so lucky as to get anywhere near it, is also in the area and Via dei Condotti, the luxury shopping street where most of us can but window shop and celebrity spot, is close by.

Trastevere- this area of Rome was the last of 14 areas to be added to the existing city by the superstitious emperor Augustus. Although it has long been a part of the city, many still consider it to be separate, with its inhabitants even calling themselves “Noantri” (us others). It is easy to understand why they feel this way, as once you have crossed the Tiber into Trastevere, it’s easy to forget you are in the capital as it is more like a village. It is where the entire youth of Rome seems to congregate at night, due to its hip bars and several clubs. Santa Maria in Trastevere is a really beautiful basilica (one of the oldest in Rome) and the square it is on is always busy with little stalls and street artists. This is also true of Piazza Trilussa.

South of Rome- this area is often overlooked by tourists, which is a real shame but also a blessing, as it means the Aventine hill is one of the most peaceful areas within the city centre. If you head to the Parco Savello, better known as the orange garden thanks to the countless orange trees, you have a marvellous view over the entire city. Further up the hill is the order of Malta and the famous keyhole through which you can see the dome of San Pietro. It cannot be described easily, but suffice to say it is beautiful and must be seen, particularly at sunset. Testaccio is also in the area but better known for its night life, although it has some great food markets. The Via Appia Antica is one of the oldest and most famous roads in the world. Its giant worn out flagstones make it easy to imagine the legionnaires marching into the city on their return from victory.

North of Rome- is the quieter part of the city. This is largely thanks to Villa Borghese, the famous park of Rome that dates back to the 17th century. It is now a favourite hang out in the summer for everyone, from families to young couples. It has sprawling lawns, big fountains and tidy flower gardens. Within the park is the Borghese Museum and Gallery, which houses an extensive collection of works by Caravaggio, Botticelli and Bernini amongst others. The Gallery of Modern Art is just down the road and equally worth a visit. Running parallel to each other to the north east of Villa Borghese, are Via Salaria (the old salt trade route into the city) and Via Nomentana, which is the elegant residential area of the city. Just off the Nomentana, is the Villa Torlonia, a wonderful park and a church where the oldest Christian mosaics in Rome are kept.

Transport

Rome is a cheap city to travel in as long as you have a ticket, as the fines are pretty steep. The bus/metro/tram routes run regularly and cover the entire city thoroughly. A simple ticket costs 1€ and lasts 75 minutes. In this time you can make 1 metro trip and as many bus and tram trips you like. You can also get to the beach in Ostia on that fare. A monthly pass is 30€, or 18€ for students studying at a Roman university. The price covers all transport, night and day. There are also passes that allow you to travel further out of the city ranging from around 39-105€ a month.

Taxis are everywhere and you can get anywhere within the city for 20€. You should not pay anymore than that unless it’s after midnight. Taxis from both Ciampino and Fiumicino airports are 40€, a price that has been set by the council to prevent drivers charging extortionate rates. Make sure they don’t overcharge you as Roman taxi drivers are notorious for ripping off foreigners. When taking a taxi, no matter when and where to, the meter should always be on tariff 1 and not tariff 2. The drivers will often try and get away with this as it almost doubles the fare. The map of Rome with the public transport routes is well worth getting!!

The University

La Sapienza is the main university which is located in the very central area of San Lorenzo. This quarter is full of hip bars and trendy clubs, no doubt thanks to the large student population. San Lorenzo is well placed to access most of the city by bus or metro. Getting to La Sapienza is easy as you exit at the metro stop Policlinico on the blue line (metro B) and the university is all along Viale Regina Elena. You can also get there with the 310 bus which stops right outside most of the faculties. To check the stops, ask at the Termini station information point or get a bus route map.

There are two other universities. Roma III has faculties all over the city and Tor Vergata is on the outskirts near the Metro stop Anagnina. Students don’t get quite as many discounts as they may be used to in countries such as England. However, there are reduced travel tickets, museum entrance, and many others. If you are a History of Art student in the UK or in Italy, and as long as you can prove it, you can get into all museums for free or at very reduced price depending on the museum and the season.

Food and Drink

Rome has a huge selection of specialities, although few realise that they do in fact belong to Rome, as they are so well known all over Italy and the world. These include dishes such as “Spaghetti Carbonara” or pasta “all’amatriciana” which can be found in every trattoria in Rome.

You should head to the Ghetto to sample, in my opinion, the best “Carciofi alla giudia” (fried artichokes) from the place where they are originate. You can find them in most restaurants in the city. Frascati is the most famous wine of the region, but there are many more. You only have to look at the abundant wine lists all around the city. Rome is a surprisingly cheap city when you learn to avoid the tourist hot spots such as Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. You should be paying around 20€ a head in most trattorias for 2 courses, wine, coffee and a limoncello.

To find the best places, look around Trastevere or in the small streets to the west of Piazza Navona. For small budgets, I highly recommend “Carlo Menta” on Piazza G.Tav.Arquati, “Ivo” just off Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere or “Maharajah” on Via dei Serpenti by the Colosseum. If you want to treat yourself, try “Cantina del Vecchio” on Via dei Coronari just by Piazza Navona or “La Rosetta” Via della Rosetta, right opposite the Pantheon.

There are some really nice bars all over the city. I recommend you try “Mimi e Coco”, one of the many bars on via del Governo Vecchio just off Piazza Navona, or “’Gusto” on Piazza Augusto Imperatore right next to Via del Corso.

Out on the Town

The centre of the city is peppered with trendy bars to suit all tastes. From Irish pubs to Cocktail bars. From the Ice bar to arty wine bars, you really will be spoiled for choice. Clubbing however is more restricted as there are very few good clubs in the city centre. Those there are, tend to be overpriced and more like bars with loud music and half a dance floor. That said, “Gilda’s” on Via Mario de’Fiori, near the Spanish steps, is a good night out. It is a very trendy club amongst the Romans, although to most foreigners it is extremely cheesy. It is great fun however, if only a little expensive at 15€ a drink.

“La Maison”, just off Via Teatro Pace near Piazza Navona, is also very popular, less cheesy and less expensive, though it can be very hard to get in. Also try “Supperclub” on Via de’Nari where you can lie down on the big white sofas and watch jugglers, or enjoy a massage whilst sipping a cocktail.

Testaccio is the best area to go clubbing (Piramide metro B). You should in particular, check out “Radio Londra”, a really quirky club where all the barstaff are transvestites. Don't be mistaken though, it is not a gay club. In the summer, there is a dance floor outside and a “selector” who allows the “chosen ones” to enter by waving a silver stick at them. All the while, the "selector" is dressed in a futuristic jumpsuit, it really is something not to be missed!!

Day Tripper

The great thing about Rome is that nothing is really too far away. Florence is only 1h30 away on the Eurostar, and Naples is a 2h train journey with trains leaving early and returning late. They are both perfect day trips.

Ponza is a beautiful island just off the coast of Lazio that you really shouldn’t miss. It has beautiful beaches and if you go there in June and July, you avoid the majority of Romans escaping the city. To get there, take the train from Termini to Anzio and from there, go by boat. You will have to check the crossing times as they change throughout the year. Sorrento is also a lovely place to see, a nice town on the Amalfi coast, you can easily get there by train. If you have the time, take the boat along the coast, it’s fantastic!!

For places much closer to Rome, head to Tivoli to see the Villa Adriana. Buses leave every 20 minutes from metro Ponte Mammolo on the B line. Ostia is cheap and easy to get to with a standard metro ticket. Take the urbane E train line until Ostia antica to see the old centre, or Lido centrale to get to the beach. The beach is not beautiful, but it’s nice if you want a break from the city.

If you have a car, or access to one, then the following three places are also well worth a visit (you can get there by train but the stations are either away from the town, or in the town and miles from the beach). Tarquinia is a lovely town in Tuscany that is famous for its Etruscan tombs. It is not far from Orbetello, which is a beautiful seaside town with great markets and shops. The beach there is really beautiful despite being busy. The most beautiful beach by far, is the San Felice Circeo in Lazio. It is a hilltop town with wonderful views all over the area and the delicious seafood at the restaurant on the main piazza is amazing.

How to make your life easier

Shops; the times vary over the seasons but most shops are closed on Sundays or Mondays. That said, it varies a lot, as Italians tend to close whenever they feel like it which can be very frustrating. In Rome, the best supermarkets are Panorama, Dì per Dì or GS. The latter can be found easily within the centre. Panorama has a great household section where you can buy everything you need. There are a lot of little shops all over the city, but they are all more expensive. On Via Colli di Rienzo, there is a large shop that imports foods from all over the world. So should you need PG tips or marmite you can head there. In Italy you can not get cashback but you can top up your phones at some supermarkets. Also be very aware that once you have bought something you can never get a refund. They will only give in store credit or change it for something of the same value, you do however have a month in most places to do this.

Bank Account; I recommend San Paolo or Banca di Roma as they are easy to find within Rome and offer a good service. Banks all vary in opening and closing hours so make sure you know them, also they have a tendency to close early so be there at least half an hour before closing time.

Codice Fiscale; To get it, you need to go to 36, Via Ippolito Nievo at the Agenzia delle entrate. You will need both your actual passport and a photocopy of it. The office closes at 1pm so be there early to avoid the hours of queuing.

The Boring Stuff

To view information about Bank Accounts & Money transfers, Internet & Telephone and Health, visit our Italy homepage.

Guide written by Polly Martin, English exchange student Rome, 2006/2007.

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:: helen burns, rome | 20 Jul 2008

ROME..... is beautiful!! a really amazing city with so much culture and heritage. The pace is quick, hard to keep up with, exciting, exhausting and yet amazing all at the same time! If you love history, art, beauty, big cities and italian this is the city for you!